As the spring mountaineering season draws to a close, Nirmal Purja (Nimsadai) has set a new record on Mount Makalu.

Purja scaled the 8,485-meter-high, fifth-most dangerous peak in the world, Makalu, on Thursday. With this, he has set a record for the most number of times he has climbed a peak above 8,000 meters.

The former British 'Special Boat Service' commando, who is skilled in climbing 14 of the world's highest peaks at his own pace, this time took on the 'no-bottle oxygen' challenge on Makalu. This is Purja's 28th ascent without oxygen, having reached the peak of Makalu without artificial oxygen (bottle). This figure is also another record in the history of world mountaineering.

Purja, who was descending to the base camp of Makalu, told Kantipur on Friday afternoon, 'Yesterday at exactly 12 o'clock, I successfully climbed Makalu with a guest. In some places, there were no ropes. In some places, there was snow. The task of leading the team was on my shoulders. With this ascent, my 56th and 28th journey without oxygen on the 8,000-meter-high mountain has been completed. I have broken my old record.' According to Purja, most of the fixed ropes that were previously used to climb the mountain had either been blown away by the wind or had disappeared into deep avalanches. He guided the team by cutting snow in places where there was no path.' This record-breaking series of Purjas began a few days ago (on Jestha 13 and 14) by completing Everest and Lhotse without oxygen in just 13 hours, 42 minutes and 17 seconds at 'flying speed'. After Jestha 15, he headed straight towards Makalu.