The porters are climbing the five ponds, carrying heavier burdens than in Thaplo.

The porters complain that they have no place to put down the burden of carrying a suitcase from time to time, but they have no place to put down the burden of pain that is buried in their hearts.

kartik 17, 2082

Aarati Poudel

The porters are climbing the five ponds, carrying heavier burdens than in Thaplo.

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Panch Pokhari in Sindhupalchowk is known as a favorite destination for tourists for trekking. Whether on the way to or from the trek, some porters are seen carrying heavy loads on their heads at various places from Chimti to Panch Pokhari, while others are resting their loads on the chautari to relieve fatigue.

Some are seen carrying empty bags and moving towards Chimti to pick up their belongings. Be it the cold or the sweaty season, porters continue their work in every season.

Some of the porters are seen wearing gum boots and daura, while others are seen carrying heavy loads in a casual manner. People ranging from 20-year-olds to 65-year-olds are also seen carrying heavy loads on the way to their destination. On the way to Panch Pokhari, the porters are carrying gas, rice and other heavy goods from Chimti to hotels and homestays in various places in Deurali, Tuppi Danda, Chokar Danda, and Norsingpati.

A porter places a very heavy load in a hotel in Tuppi Danda among the crowd of heavy-lifters. As soon as he placed the load, he let out a long sigh and drank a bottle of water that was nearby. He took a handkerchief from his pocket and wiped the sweat that was dripping down his face and put the handkerchief in the pocket of his ascot. He was wearing a black T-shirt, a black ascot and black tracksuits, and had slippers on his feet. ‘Today’s load is very big and heavy!’ he chatted with the hotel’s owner for a while.

I, who was staying at the same hotel on my way to Panch Pokhari, was attracted by the work and complaints of that porter. I asked him, ‘Doesn’t your head hurt when you carry such a heavy load at once?’ He laughed and joked, ‘When we, who work as laborers and run the household, are burdened, it hurts, my child!’ The porters are climbing the five ponds, carrying heavier burdens than in Thaplo.

He was Akal Bahadur Tamang of Chhimti-3. He is 55 years old and has been carrying heavy loads for the past seven years. He said that his two sons have now gone to India for employment. ‘When I get a job as a porter, I do the same work, and when I get a job as a mechanic, I do the same work,’ he said, ‘What can I do, I have to earn my living.’

Akal said that he used to reach Tuppi Danda from Chhimti in three hours by carrying loads. ‘I earn around 1200 rupees by carrying goods to Norsingpati. But it takes two days,’ he said, ‘I can’t walk that far carrying such a heavy load.’ That's why I used to carry luggage to the hotel up to Tuppi Danda.''

He says that he used to get a wage of 600 rupees for carrying loads till there. Sometimes, if he doesn't get a nearby job to carry loads, he even reaches Norsingpati carrying loads. Akal is happy with the work he is doing and plans to continue it as long as he can. 'I have suffered a lot in my life.'' It hurts a lot when I remember that,'' he said.

He said that he can put down the load he carries in Thaplo from time to time and walk around, but there is no place to put down the burden of pain he has in his heart. ''This is much heavier than the load in Thaplo,'' he said.

Akal says that he doesn't get much work carrying loads during the summer. He earns more money working as a mechanic than carrying loads. ‘Working as a mason earns up to 8/9 hundred,’ he said, ‘I can only earn 600 by carrying such a heavy load.’ He said that this income gives him much more satisfaction than sitting at home without getting work.’ He says that every year, a fair is held from Saune Putrada Ekadashi to Janai Purnima, and at that time, he finds it difficult to carry things.’ He says that many young people who earn a living by carrying heavy loads after not finding other jobs were also found in that area.’ Subash Lamichhane, a resident of Dudhkoshi Rural Municipality-1, Solukhumbu Chulung, is 24 years old. He has been working as a heavy load carrier from Chimdi to Panch Pokhari for some time. Having completed his ‘Plus Two’ with a degree in education, he says that he tried hard to find a job but could not find one, so he embraced the profession of carrying heavy loads. He says, ‘I walked a lot in search of work, and after finding no other solution, I decided to do this job even if it was difficult.’

Subash said that he used to carry heavy loads here because the path to Panch Pokhari was easy. He said that he used to walk from Chimdi to Panch Pokhari in two days with his load. He said that even though the work was not easy, he was forced to do hard work as well as for money. ‘I earn two thousand by carrying heavy loads.’ 500 is enough for lunch and dinner on the way. Fifteen hundred is saved,’ he said, ‘I did this work out of compulsion to earn money after not getting any other work.’

He says that he has not taken a room anywhere because he has to carry heavy loads. ‘I cannot sit down, I have not taken a room because I have to carry heavy loads,’ he said, ‘I stay wherever I reach after carrying heavy loads.’ Even if you have to pay for food at the place where you take your luggage, you don't have to pay for sleeping at night.' He also said that he is very happy doing this job because he sometimes gets extra money when he gets the job of carrying potatoes and tourist bags when he returns after delivering the luggage. 'When you go up, you have to carry a heavy load and when you come back empty, it makes your life easier,' he said, 'That's why I think I should have been able to return with a heavy load when I return.'

Subash says that he feels hurt when people treat him differently depending on the job in Nepal and that he is thinking of going abroad after earning some money. He also argues that if he goes abroad, others will not look down on him. 'No one tries to understand why he is forced to work,' he said, 'Perhaps the trekkers look at him with surprise when they see him carrying a heavy load.' They stare at me.' He shared his bitter experience of not being able to get a job after completing 12th standard even though he had dreams and hopes of getting a good job in Nepal.

Aarati

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