From Toronto to Mount Everest

Being with Himal/Mountain for 12 days and reaching there after 12 years of abstinence gave me energy.

Jestha 16, 2082

From Toronto to Mount Everest

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Nepal is better than Canada? This is probably the question that I have asked many people in the 9 years of my stay in Toronto and they also want an answer. Although the words were different according to the person, situation and context, the essence of the answer was the same, 'Sun and June are both beautiful - they give different light according to time and situation.'

I knew that Nepal is the root, Canada is the air. It was also said that if the roots are strong, the wind can be thrown at any speed. And this was also knowledge – Back home is the song of love, Karmabhumi is the music of opportunity. It is also said that if you can have a good harmony with both, the musical melody of life will be pleasant to the ears. 

'What do you miss most about Nepal?', this is a question I am rarely asked. Because, the answer is already guessed – Dalbhat, Dasaintihhar, brother or sister. However, those who asked heard differently, 'Himal/Mountain.'

From Toronto to Mount Everest

There are dozens of experiences of people who have never looked at a compass and lost their way after coming to Toronto. The directions of Google Maps may be correct, but there are experiences where the destination is different when the understanding is wrong. The result of all of them was the delay in reaching the destination. Sometimes it was enough. This is a story shared by many middle-aged immigrants like myself. In the early years, the reason for arriving late to all the appointments was the same - getting lost, i.e. not having a sense of direction. Be it watching a cricket match or Indira Joshi's concert - it's too late. The reason is the same – there are no mountains/mountains in the Toronto area that give a sense of direction like in Nepal.

From Toronto to Mount Everest

Backing north in Nepal means seeing Himal/Mountains. Whether we stand in Kechna or walk in Kailali, there is no harm to the Himalayas/Mountains if we look towards the North. And when asked for the way, he grew up hearing that 'you can reach it after cutting that mountain'. On the other hand, if you ask someone, they say, 'Look at the GPS follow.' Accustomed to seeing the sky through a mountain/mountain frame, the Toronto sky seemed strange to me – empty, nameless and barren. Due to light and air pollution, the starless area is becoming isolated. Searching for the tallest place in Toronto only found the CN Tower. Even after climbing it twice, it could not erase the hatred of Nepali Himal/Mountain. 

From Toronto to Mount Everest

The horizon seen from Elam, where I was born/raised, was natural, where sky and earth met. The skyline of the Toronto area is artificial, where high-rise buildings feel connected to the sky. As the horizon looked different, even when I was comforted that I was in a city without mountains/hills, my eyes kept looking for Kuivhir and Pathi, Kanchanjunga and Kumbhakarna. 

From Toronto to Mount Everest

In the Toronto area, where all the terrain seems to be flat, I decided last year to reach the arms of the mountains, not just the mountains. Although two dozen mountains are in Canada, including Mount Logan and Lucania above 5000 meters, they did not attract him. The distance and expenses to get there from Toronto were not low. 

From Toronto to Mount Everest

I planned to reach Everest base camp at 5,364 meters from Toronto, which is only 113 meters above sea level. The month was October. The occasion was Dasain Tihar. And, I decided to reach my destination without spending two nights on the trail. A former chronic alcoholic, I chose this 'self-challenge' when I was close to 12 years of abstinence. 

From Toronto to Mount Everest

Lukla could not fly even after waiting for three days in Kathmandu due to bad weather. I reached Phaplu by reserving Bolero. I got off at Juving in a pickup truck carrying foreign tourists. And, hanging onto the pickup, I reached the stop. The first night in the Khumbu region was spent at Phapluma and the second at Paiyan. Thamdanda was with him from the beginning - Teck Tamang, ready to play both the role of porter and guide. 

From Toronto to Mount Everest

The first day's trek started with the goal of climbing from foot to foot. This was my first trek in the Khumbu region. As the bad weather cleared, helicopters were seen flying in the sky. From Surke to Chaunrikhark, Cheplung, Ghat and reached Phakding. Walking up and down the stone-paved footpath started to hurt my legs. 

From Toronto to Mount Everest

After eating dal rice in Fakding, we reached Monzo through Toktok, Benkar. In terms of distance, the first day's trek was more than 21 km long. He started to feel sleepy after taking a bath and eating Dalbhat in Monjo's 'Namaste Lodge'. When he woke up in the morning, his legs were still sore, and the rash was also increased. However, we wrapped plastic bags in the shallow water and headed towards Namche. 

From Toronto to Mount Everest

After entering the check point of Everest National Park, the water stopped while heading towards Jorasalle. Tourists returning from the base camp, their porters and guides, and horses and camels dismounting to carry loads were seen along the trail. When Hillary crossed the bridge and reached the view point, she found a bunch of tourists dancing and singing 'Resham Firiri...'. 

From Toronto to Mount Everest

It was 12 pm when I stepped into Namche, the biggest market in the Khumbu region. The bags were packed and launched at the 'Khumbu Lodge' run by Pasangyalzen Sherpa. After a while Mastir climbed and reached the 'Hotel Everest View' via Sangboche, Everest Next. On his way back in the evening Namche was engrossed in 'Om Mani Padyme Hoon...' resounding from the chyorten of Madhya Bazar.

From Toronto to Mount Everest

Namche was sunny the next morning as we headed straight towards Tengboche. To the east Thamserkuy smiled. The Kongde and Khumbila mountains towered in the west. After reaching Tengboche through Dingzung, Dole, Forche, no accommodation was found. All three lodges were packed. We moved forward again with a plan to reduce the distance and find accommodation. That night's stay was in Milingo. 

From Toronto to Mount Everest

The next morning the trees/butyans were less visible as we crossed the Imja River to the left. Seen every 5/10 minutes bringing in tourist/purpose helicopters. Even pain relievers did not completely cure the leg pain. The pain was still there. Even though the body was not fully fit, the hustle and bustle of not leaving the base camp was intense. 

From Toronto to Mount Everest

It was 10 o'clock in the morning when we reached Pangboche where the road leading to Amadablam mountain splits. Black coffee was drunk there. The advantage of being a sunny day is that no matter what angle you shoot it from, the picture comes out beautiful. Tons of pulses were eaten in Somare. Moving slowly, reached Dingboche in the afternoon. Stayed there at 'Bright Star Lodge'. It was a special feeling of reaching the Himalayan region. 

From Toronto to Mount Everest

The next day, Dingboche fell as Lobuche approached. To the east, the 6,812-meter Amadablam mountain seemed to be twice as tall and towering. Tobuche, Cholatse and Mahalangur mountains were visible to the west and south. Dudhkoshi beach was amazing. That sunny afternoon, which looks beautiful wherever you look, did not know that it had reached Dughla. 

From Toronto to Mount Everest

Found Everest Memorial Park in Chukpi Lhara. It was sad to see the names of many climbers who lost their lives while climbing the mountains of Khumbu region. The sun had disappeared and the weather was gloomy. The further it went, the heavier it became. On reaching Lobuche, a helicopter crash site was found in October 2023. Pilot Prakash Sedhai died during treatment. 

From Toronto to Mount Everest

Lobuche's 'Sherpa Lodge' was hardly accommodated. Despite not feeling hungry, ate mushroom soup and popcorn. After eating most of the dal in the evening, he went to bed. He was feeling unwell since the night. In the morning the sequence increased. He did not want to swallow even water. When going to the toilet, stool does not come, when not going, it becomes loose. Assistant Tech Tamang was shocked to see my condition. 

I was lazy in the morning when all the trekkers at Lobuche were on their way to the base camp. Wasn't sure what happened. There was a problem of leg pain and swelling. On top of that, the body felt strange again. I was unable to drink even water and tea. When it was 10 o'clock, the tech announced the decision, "You have altitude sickness, now you will not go up and down." 

From Toronto to Mount Everest

I understood that you can't ski in the mountains. I also understood that it is foolish to try to forcefully ascend when you are unwell. However, the day of reaching Gorkshep ie the base camp did not mean that such a lulo would happen. 12,000 kilometers away from Toronto, the man who came to Lobuche quickly! I had no idea that I would have to go down to Feriche without going uphill on the last day. 

'No matter what, I will climb uphill,' I decided after drinking two cups of water and noodles and vomited all of them, 'I will not give up in the end, I will leave the base camp.' Tech kept looking at the towel. Sahuni of the Sherpa lodge also said nothing. At around 11:30 in the morning, I entrusted Ni Tech to pack my bag. I followed him with only a gopro, gimbal and mobile. 

Standing up every 10 minutes, sitting down for another 10 minutes I finally left that afternoon reaching Gorkshep. Had it not been for the delay in Lobuche itself, the base camp would have been reached on the same day. As soon as I reached Goraksep, I entered the government medical center. Dr. Sunil Baniyan, who is working there, after checking everything, told the conclusion - 'You are not suffering from diarrhea, you are suffering from food poisoning.' I was shocked. 

'Snowland's highest in' Sahuni gets scared when she enters with medicine. She said, "If you are sick, you should not climb the mountains, but fall down." She said, "If anything happens, it will be difficult here." I couldn't think of going back when I was about to go to my dream destination. I climbed from Lobuche to Gorkshep with the confidence that I would definitely reach it. There was a lot of suffering. I went to the toilet 11 times that night in Gorakhshep. I drank three thermoses of water. The room was on the top floor, the toilet on the ground floor. Vomiting and diarrhea continued – all night long. Mount Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Pumori, etc. located in the arms of the Gorakhshep Everest trail, the last stop! The temperature is always minus minus. I slept for maybe two hours in the morning.

From Toronto to Mount Everest

'We will go to the base camp after breakfast,' I told the tech in the morning, 'Today is our big day.' We reached the base camp in two and a half hours. We took pictures there for about an hour. We watched other tourists. After returning to Gorakhshep and launching, we climbed Kalapathar again. We returned and landed at 'Snowland' around 4 pm. 

'I didn't believe it when I saw yesterday's condition,' Sahuni smiled looking at me, 'If you don't lose courage, you will leave as soon as you reach the destination.' I was getting both medicine and food. The plan to go to Gokyo Lake was canceled and the second night was spent in Gorkseap.

Lukla didn't dare to fall with his limp legs. I met that doctor Sunil. He checked again and added the medicine. Determining that it was not quite right, he suggested to go down even though he was in a helicopter. I got a helicopter through my friend Chakra Karki, who helped me from the start. The helicopter flying above Dudhkoshi carrying me and Tech landed in Lukla within 11 minutes. 

was forced to stay in Lukla that night. I stayed at 'Paradise Lodge' near the airport. The next day i.e. the 11th day I returned to Kathmandu. After general medication there 

tangrien. Although the body was weak, the mind was very strong. The reason to be happy - I had reached the Khumbu region with whatever plan I had from Toronto, and I left after completing it. I did not give up.

'Now you should find the lost direction in Toronto,' said the writer Amar Neupane, 'Let's not consider kissing the peak as success, reaching the lap of Everest is not a success.' Being with the mountain/mountain for 12 days and reaching there after 12 years of quitting alcohol gave me a lot of happiness. The path taken by Everest climbers is also the same, who knows what they are walking - maybe they want to kiss the peak in the future!

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